Sunday, October 31, 2010
It took me about 8 trips around the car to use up the whole gallon. I think I had the gun set too thin to start with, so I thickend up the mix and I was draining guns in about 10 minutes. I also shot both doors and the deck lid. I was going to shoot the hood too, but I wrapped the edges in packing tape a year or so ago and when I went to take it off, it left adheasive all over the place. I tried to wipe it off with thinner and cleaner, then tried to sand it off and went right through the epoxy... The hood is about 100% so it shouldn't need a bunch of primer/surfacer. I'll probably shoot it with a 2K primer later on.
The whole house stinks like bondo. It's 50 degrees and we have all the windows open. Hopefully it burns off soon!!!
Saturday, October 30, 2010
I hit Home Depot at the crack of 8am for painter's plastic, steel wool, and a couple small items. The plastic I bought was a roll of .35 mil 12'x400' for $24. I also dropped by my dad's house to pick up a box fan. I added a handful of thumb tacks and that was my paint booth for the day. Sorry, I didn't take picks, but it's in my video.
After the Depot, I hit the final wheel arch welds and ground them down. Wouldn't you know it, my welder was very tempermental, and almost pooped on me durning my last few welds. Thankfully, it held out. I was done with the welding and grinding about noon.
I started to DA the entire car thinking it would take about 30 minutes... WOW, that's a huge job. I spent about 2-1/2 hours and went though about 15 discs of 80 grit. When I was done the car looked great. I wire brushed the weatherstrip channels and all the weld beads to make sure I got all the surface rust that was on the car.
After the DA, I hit the whole car with "Pete's Pickle Juice" and steel wool. Pete from Southwest Rod and Custom said that you can buy the metal prep from PPG for about $25 a gallon or you can buy a $2 bottle of white vinegar and add it to water... It's the same thing except for the blue food coloring. The vinegar turns spots on the car a gold color. I suspect it's some sort of impurity, I don't know. I wiped one fender at a time, then rinsed it off with a hose, then dried with paper towels, then hit it with the hose again. I've never done that step before, so I hope I did it right...
Once the car was hosed down and dry, I hit it with Final Prep (wax and grease remover) from Carrol Brothers. It's the same thing as PPG DX 330, but a heck of a lot cheaper. The panels were so clean they actually squeeked as I dragged the Torx paper towels over them.
After the final prep, I pulled the car into the garage and began building the cacoon out of the painter's plastic. Once that was done, I poured a bucket of water on the floor and started the box fan. Then it was time to start mixing paint.
I had two quarts of 402LF and one was no longer a liquid. Apparently, that stuff has a shelf life... The one that was still liquid, was amber in color, which happens with age. I used some DTV reducer and the mix was 2 parts dp90, 1 part 402, .5 parts DTV. This makes a fairly thin sealer that's easier to spray than straight DP. I used a Devilbis Starting Line HVLP gun. This was the first time I really put this gun through the paces.
Once the paint was in the gun (I forgot to strain it, I'll cover that later...) I turned the pressure regulator/valve at the gun to 0, pulled the trigger and slowly opened the regulator until the gun was about 10 PSI. I used a small, round pattern since that seemed to give me a lot of control. The gun performed like a dream! I couldn't believe I was laying paint down that smooth. I did get a couple sags because I lost my concentration for a bit, but all-in-all it looks good. When I got to the end of the first gun full, the paint started to spatter a bit and I couldn't figure out why. It only lasted a little bit and it was time to refill. I refilled and the paint was back to smooth again. At the end of the gun, same spattering... Duh, the paint wasn't strained through the filter... I won't make that mistake again.
I finished cleaning up from the primer/sealer at 7:30p.m.
Things I learned... Give yourself PLENTY of room to work. My cacoon was too small. I needed 2'-3' more room on the sides of the car than what I had. Also, I tripped over the platic in a few places and it came down. There was almost no overspray with the HVLP gun, so not having the plastic wasn't a huge issue. I barely squeezed this job in today and I was hoping to get polyester surfacer on as well... I didn't give myself anywhere near enough time to get everything done, so I was rushed and frustrated by the end of the job. The car is supposed to be a fun project and the stress level today did not make it any fun at all. The results are kick ass though!!!
Friday, October 29, 2010
I finally conceeded to cutting the right rear quarter at the decklid gap. I really had a bad feeling about this, because the quarter was original and uncut, but in the end, it didn't fit, so something was wrong. After I got everything stitched up, I feel it was probably the best decision I made on the restoration so far. The fit is fantastic now!
Tomorrow I paint!!!
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
My rear apron did not arrive from House of Ghia today. I spoke with Mike, the owner, last week and he said they were out of stock and he would have one drop shipped from the manufacturer and it was supposed to be here today... Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow or my final weekend of 70 degree temps may pass me by without getting paint on the car. If that happens, I'll have to punt and come up with a backup plan... I don't think the epoxy needs 70 degrees to cure but the polyester surfacer does for sure. I can always fire up the kerosene heater while I'm laying down the surfacer.
Right side quarter patch ground down
Left side patch welded in and dressed
Sunday, October 24, 2010
I broke screw driver #3 trying to remove the last two screws from the passenger door hinge. Thankfully this one had a life time warrenty and I returned it to the Home Depot for a new one. I hit the screws with 2 thick coats of PB Blaster, I guess I'll pull out the torch and see what I can do. I am just afraid of melting a good hinge. I believe they are aluminum, so melting is a big concern.
After I ate lunch and watched the final quarter of the Chiefs game, I set out to weld in the passenger's side front section of the lower rear quarter. These patch panels are notorious for their ill fit. It took just about 5 hours to cut, fit, bully and weld the panel in place. It was about 9 p.m. by the time I cleaned up all the tools, so I did not get the welds ground down. I used SEM brushable weld through primer on all the areas to be welded. I still don't like the way this product makes the welds spatter and the heat that you have to use to burn through it. It's much better than not putting anything there, but I still don't like it. Since it was in the rocker section and I can't get in there to paint AFTER I weld, I don't really have a choice. I have to return to the office tomorrow, and I have to spend Tuesday away from the car as well. Hopefully I can pick up the pace on Wednesday and get a few more items checked off the list so I can get the car in epoxy this weekend.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
I'll have more progress pics tomorrow.
Thursday, October 21, 2010
I spent yesterday and the day before picking up as many "housekeeping" items as I could on the ghia. I fitted the metal around the Left tail light, I welded up a couple small rust holes, made a couple small patches for rust that was revealed after stripping the paint and I modified the door tops so I can paint them rather than reinstall the black plastic covers that VW put on during the 70's. The top of the door has a bump where the lock button was at one time. In the 70's the lock release was added to the inside handle that opens the door. A few cuts, a minute or two with the hammer, a few cracks with the welder and the door top was smooooooth.
I also stripped the glass, regulators and striker out of the doors. I ground off all the paint on the bottoms of the doors thinking that I would find rust... Thankfully, the first place on the car that was pretty much rust free.
I have a ton of stuff on the agenda today: paint and weld in the front bumper mounts, clean and coat the L hinge pillar, grind, grind, grind, coat the inner doors, cut off the old rear apron (still haven't received my new one from Mike @ HOG.
lock dimple cut, hammered and welded flat (sorry no "after" pic)
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
Loren from the Samba made me a great deal on these two hard to find puzzle pieces for my car. The ones I removed (shown below) were completely trashed. New ones are $180 per side!!! Loren squared me up for $10 a piece! I spent the first day of my vacation cleaning them and grinding down the light rust that had built up over the last 35 years. I had to cut the tubes out of my old brackets and I still have to strip the coatings off one of them, then I will coat them, inside and out, with POR-15 and mount them on the car. These are the last two pieces of metalwork I need to get welded in on the front of the car.
Loren also did me a huge favor by cutting up a junker intermediate bow for my convertible top. I will use it as a guide when I fabricate my new piece. Thanks Loren!!!
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
If I have some good luck, tomorrow I'll get the same panel welded into the driver's side.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Well, I finally got to use it this past weekend to straighten out the bead. After about a dozen passes with the tool (light rapping on the tool), the ridge looks to be about 99%. There are a couple deep gouges in the bead and some small lumps on the sides that I couldn't get worked out. I am planning to squirt a coat of polyester filler primer on the whole car, and I'll bet that will make the imperfections dissappear. Believe it or not, the inside of the bead looked like brand new. I don't believe anyone but a seasoned body man could tell that this bead has ever been damaged.
This weekend I also was able to grind away the rust on the right A-pillar inside the fender. My grinding tools wouldn't fit all the way back into the crevises, so I took a putty knife and cleaned off all the loose scale. Tonight in the 45 minutes I had from the time I left the office and the time I had to leave for a Board of Alderman meeting, I managed to give the area a good coat of POR-15. Everywhere else on the car, I have made sure I have 100% of the rust off. In this area, I figured, it will never be seen, and the metal is very thick. The good coating of POR should never come loose and hopefully never allow any moisture into the areas that have/had a bit of surface rust left on them.
Monday, October 4, 2010
To fix the track I had to weld a tab on the outer track to complete the flat plate that welds to the floor pan. Also missing was the bump out in the vertical part of the track. Not too big of a job, but it still took two hours to clean them up, fit up the pieces and weld them in.
Bump out patch welded in
It took me about 3 hours (interrupted by watching the race and drinking a few cool ones) to polish up all the chrome. I used 000 (three ought) steel wool to do all the dirty work. I even brought along a few hammers and repaired some dings. To make repairs, I set my dinging spoon upside down on my knee, covered it with a rag (so it wouldn't leave scratches in the chrome) and hammered out dings from the back side.
Not the greatest picture in the world, but you can see an unpolished hubcap on the left (it was too rusted to bother polishing) and compare it to all the others.